
SOPRON
The Sopron region is in western Hungary, on the border with Austria, and
has long been considered the spiritual home of the Kékfrankos grape. The best vineyards are located in the hills
above Balf, overlooking Lake Ferto. The
climate is temperate, with relatively frost-free springs, warm summer and fall
seasons. The soils on the best vineyard
sites are primarily loess mixed with slate and granite.
Franz Weninger, a renown Austrian
winemaker who has made his name producing great wines in Austria from the Kékfrankos (known as Blaufrankisch) varietal. In 1997, he purchased 24 hectares in the
excellent Spern Steiner and Frettner vineyards.
Included were 10 hectares of old Kékfrankos vines. The varietals currently being produced are
Kékfrankos, Merlot, Syrah, and a little bit of Cabernet Franc.
TOKAJ
Tokaj, located in northeastern
Hungary, is the country’s most famous wine producing region. The famed Aszú dessert wines have fascinated wine drinkers and graced Europe’s royal
courts for centuries. French King Louis
proclaimed it the “Wine of Kings, King of Wines.“ The Russian czars maintained a unit of
Cossack troops there to ensure a constant supply. In 1772, the world's first vineyard
classification system was developed in Tokaj-Hegyalja, almost one hundred years
prior to the establishment of Bordeaux’s classifications.
Tokaj is one of the world’s unique terroirs, where the mix of climate and soils provide the basis for the
wines produced here. The soils are clay and loess, mixed with a variety of volcanic
rock.
Winters are cold, spring comes early, and summers are warm. During the long and sunny Autumn, the Tisza
and Bodrog rivers produce early morning
fogs that blanket the vineyards. As the
day warms, the humidity and heat combine to initiate a process called botrytis
cinera, or “noble rot“. Essentially, the
grapes lose their moisture and shrivel up, leaving high levels of sugar and
acids. These grapes are combined with a
base wine to produce wines that have high residual sugar levels that are
balanced by strong acidity and minerality.
VILLÁNY /SIKLOS
The Villány appellation is Hungary’s southernmost wine region. Located near the 46th meridian, the region is at nearly the same latitude as Bordeaux’s (France) northern areas. Blessed with a Mediterranean climate, this region feels spring’s warmth and energy before the rest of the country, and has longer hours of sunshine than the national average. The soil is primarily limestone covered with varying thicknesses of clay and loess, and rich in lime and calcium deposits. These ideal weather and soil conditions provide the basis for making amazing red and white wines using Hungarian and international varietals.
The Bock family has been making
wine in the Villány area since the late 1800s.
World War II, and the ensuing Communist-led governing structure
interrupted their traditions. Joszef,
who was Hungary’s Winemaker of the Year in 1997, has spent the past seventeen
years acquiring holdings in the region’s top vineyards, including Jammertal and Ördögárok.
Jozsef’s wines are characterized by solid structure and body, excellent
textures and aromas, and ageability among the premier selections. The winery owns 50 hectares (124
acres), of which 36 hectares (89 acres) are currently producing Cabernet
Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Portugieser, Merlot, Kékfrankos, Pinot Noir, and
Syrah. White grapes include Olaszrizling, Chardonnay, and Hárslevelu.
Bock’s signature wine is his Cuvée Barrique, a Bordeaux-style blend.
The Gere family’s grape growing and wine production tradition goes back 10
generations. The family was also
impacted by the government structure installed after World War II. Attila, who was Hungary’s Winemaker of the
Year in 1994, began making wine in 1978, with commercial efforts beginning in
1991.
The winery owns 50 hectares (124 acres), with 33 hectares (82 acres) of
vineyards in some of the regions’s best sites such as Csillagvölgy, Kopár,
Konkoly, and Ördögárok slopes. These vineyards produce cabernet sauvignon,
cabernet franc, merlot, kékfrankos, and portugieser. Attila’s flagship wine is Kopar, a
Bordeaux-style blend. Attila’s wines are
polished, well made wines with the structure to keep improving in the cellar.
Csaba’s professional introduction to wine was serving as sommelier at
Gundel, one of Budapest’s finest restaurants, in the early nineties. Csaba also
opened one of Budapest‘s first fine wine stores in 1992. After careful choosing Villány, he opened his
winery there in 1997.
In a short time, Csaba’s wines have established themselves as among the
finest in Hungary. His wines are
typified as big, refined wines that are approachable. He pays meticulous attention to detail, even
choosing the Hungarian oak that goes into the barrique barrels he uses. Csaba currently has 27 hectares (67 acres)
under cultivation, producing cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, pinot
noir, kékfrankos, and chardonnay. His
flagship wine is the Cabernet Franc Kuria Unfiltered Selection, a fine example
of what can be accomplished with this grape.
In the early 1990s, Franz Weninger, one of Austria’s leading red wine
makers, made a move to invest in Hungary’s re-emerging wine industry, choosing
the Villány appellation due to its execellent clay and limestone soils and
Meditteranean climate. He partnered with
one of Villány’s leading wine makers,
Attila Gere, to form the Weninger & Gere Winery in 1992.